Ed Young On Wine
Take a few minutes each month to read Ed's insights and you'll never be at a loss for "winespeak".
AVAs: Just Where Was That Wine Grown?
by Ed Young, Frugal MacDoogal.com Feature Writer.
Photos by Jerry Hall
July, 2010
How much attention did you pay to what is on the label of the last bottle of wine you bought? You undoubtedly noticed the varietal, and the vintner, but there is other information on there that can increase your knowledge and enjoyment of wines. Just as America is divided into states, grape growing regions across the country are divided into American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). This month we are explaining what that means to you as a wine consumer.
Q. Just what is an AVA and how many of them are there?
A. An AVA is a designated grape growing area in the U.S. distinguishable by geographic features (topography, climate, soil type, elevation) and defined boundaries. At last count, there were 193 of them, covering just about every state in the country. California has 119 AVAs.
Q. Who decides what is an AVA?
A. The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau of the U.S. Treasury Department defines AVAs at the request of wineries and other petitioners. These designations were instituted in 1978. The Bureau also regulates the information required on labels, including approved grape names. Incidentally, there are 267 of these, most of which few people have heard of (Montefiore, Landal, Villard Blanc, Yuga, Durif).
Q. Are AVAs limited in size?
A. No, not at all. The smallest is Cole Ranch, at 62 acres, in Mendocino County, California. The largest is the Ohio River AVA, which is 26,000 square miles and covers four states. Tennessee, Mississippi, and Louisiana comprise a single AVA known as the Mississippi Delta.
Q. Is there a limit on the number of wineries within an AVA?
A. No. Some of the larger ones may have many dozens of wineries. At least two, Chalone and Calera, both in the Central Valley of California, are the only wineries in their AVAs.
Q. What purpose do AVAs serve?
A. They are all about terroir—the unique features of land that influence the character and quality of grapes, and that ultimately produce differences in wine. In France, the name of the varietal, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, is seldom printed on the label. Instead, the label tells you where the wine was made. These place names are strictly regulated by government through the Appellation d’Origine Controlee, that protects the integrity of the terroir. Italian wines are regulated by the Indicazione Geografica Tipica. AVAs are similar, although the regulations are not as strict. The ultimate purpose in all three countries is to protect the consumer, preserve the geographic pedigree, and assure the accuracy of labeling.
Q. What kind of regulations are we talking about?
A. In France, there are restrictions on trellising vines, the amount of irrigation that may be done, the type of grapes that may be grown, the maximum permitted yield, and even the percentage of alcohol in the finished wine. We don’t go that far. A standard requirement is that 85% of the wine in a bottle with an AVA designation must be made from grapes grown within that AVA.
Q. I have a bottle that has on the label: "North Coast, Napa Valley, Rutherford". That’s confusing!
A. You are right. "North Coast" is a designation for a large area comprising six counties in California. "Napa Valley" shows where in the North Coast area the wine was produced, and "Rutherford" is the specific AVA where at least 85% of the grapes were grown. Incidentally, instead of putting all three designations on the label, the vintner could have just put "Rutherford". There are many confusing scenarios. Carneros, the southernmost AVA in Napa, also lies partly in Sonoma County. Pride Winery straddles the Napa/Sonoma boundary line creating difficulties for "truth in labeling". Oregon and Washington share the Columbia Gorge and Columbia Valley AVAs. You have to look at the fine print on the label to determine in which state the wine was actually made. When a prominent geographic feature like the Columbia River dominates an area, however, it would be foolish to split the AVA by state.
Q. Can AVA designations be changed?
A. Yes, by petition of wineries and others affected. For instance, the Paso Robles AVA, in the Central Coast, stretches laterally for thirty or forty miles, but is bisected by State Rt. 101. West of 101, toward the Pacific Ocean, most of the vineyards are growing Zinfandel. East of 101, Cabernet, Merlot, and the Rhone varieties such as Viognier and Syrah predominate. While there are no restrictions on diverse varietals within an AVA, some growers would like to split the AVA in two to give each one more identity.
Q. How much attention do you personally pay to AVA designations?
A. A lot! I used to ignore these, but over time, it dawned on me that I was preferring wines from certain locations. My favorite Pinot Noir is made from grapes grown in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. My favorite Zinfandel comes from the Rockpile Road AVA. Great Petite Syrah is also being grown there. Amador County and Dry Creek Valley also produce outstanding Zinfandel. Nowhere in the world (arguably) are Cabernet Sauvignon grapes superior to Oakville and Stag’s Leap in Napa. Real connoisseurs can tell the difference between those two. And that same varietal grown in the Atlas Peak, Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain, and Mount Veeder AVAs have their advocates. There is a huge difference between Carneros and Calistoga, even though both are in Napa. The bottom line is that terroir does make a difference, and as your palate becomes more experienced, you will notice that wines from certain locations please more than others. So start paying more attention to those AVA designations. That will help to sharpen your palate and increase your wine drinking pleasure.
